Cookbook Review

What Fresh Hell: Quick ‘n’ Easy Dinners for Unexpected Guests. Bootsy Barnes Boxwood. 112 pages. Homemaker Press. $19.95.

Break out the cooking sherry! That’s the first piece of advice we get from Bootsy Barnes Boxwood, author of Drinking Alone While Cooking for Two, in her new book, What Fresh Hell: Quick ‘n’ Easy Dinners for Unexpected Guests. A self-described “cordon blah chef,” Boxwood now gives us her guide to fine dining at the last minute – after hubby’s called to say he’s bringing the boss home for supper, the Eagle Scouts have just camped in your living room, and the mother-in-law who said she’d never darken your door again shows up.

Ever since the days of Mrs. Beeton, women have looked for time and labor saving ways to run their kitchens. As that eminent Victorian advised in her Book of Household Management (1861), when it comes to cooking, “all terms of indecision should be banished.” Boxwood is the modern Beeton, minus the scullery maid – a woman who is not afraid to wield a can opener and a bottle of ketchup. Let others embrace their James Beard and Julia Child; my choice is Boxwood’s back-to-basics approach to getting dinner over with. It’s not rocket science – but a little fuel sure helps!

Boxwood’s recipes call for an uncommon amount of brandy and vermouth, but that just adds to the warmth around the dinner table as guests enjoy her Casserole à la Colonel and Chili con Corn Flakes. Tuna and minute rice are mainstays, and if you have canned peas, you are ready to entertain. But don’t think this is just another add-mushroom-soup-and-stir cookbook. Boxwood combines convenience with elegance to serve up tasty meals with a truly eclectic range of ingredients -- in fact, whatever’s in the house when the panic sets in. One might quibble with her approach to writing recipes; for those of us who are not natural cooks, a “dash” of this and a “slosh” of that will not be sufficient guidance, but Boxwood allays our anxiety, and hers, with frequent reminders to “sip” -- surely the best way to face down dinner.

No cookbook author can afford to ignore the interest in healthy eating that has swept the nation in recent years. Boxwood avoids artery-clogging corn oil, recommending extra virgin (“at least it was when I bought it!” she quips) olive oil for her Titanic Salad, a clever combination of iceberg lettuce and blue cheese (“at least it was when I bought it!” – Boxwood knows just how far to stretch a joke). She thoughtfully provides the calorie count for the most popular before, during, and after dinner drinks, but her bottom line is this: never mix the grape and the grain. That’s good advice, although a little hard to follow in a book so filled with “good cheer.”

A creative dessert will crown any meal, and here Boxwood excels. Did you know that leftover candy corn makes a great ice cream topping, with or without the ice cream? Boxwood also provides simple centerpiece ideas to suit the season: a pine cone in an ashtray for the winter holidays, a bunny slipper filled with dried-up marshmallow chicks for a festive Easter look; the list goes on.

We look forward to Boxwood’s upcoming Dining after Divorce, a cookbook for women facing re-entry into the job market and a vicious custody battle. In the meantime, have a friend drive you to the bookstore to pick up a copy of What Fresh Hell and then toast yourself for being smart – and “loaded” with great new ideas!

Margaret Burnside
Food Editor